Santorini - Day 5

See Santorini - Day 4.

Smaragdi Hotel in Perivolos, Santorini

Black Sand Beach at Perivolos, Santorini

Santorini - Day 4

1. Wake up.
2. Swim in pool. 
3. Read book.
4. Swim in Agean Sea.
5. Doze a little. 
6. Repeat. 

Another tough day in the life ...

Of the sisterhood ...

Black Sand Beach at Perivolos, Santorini, Greece

OPA!!!

We have heard it said so many times in the past few days. Sometimes in a restaurant, sometimes on the beach, sometimes just walking in the street. But what does "opa!" mean to the Greeks around us and why do we feel so inspired to use it too?

Below is an excerpt from the Huffington Post that I think both clarifies and personalizes it.

The Greek word "opa!" has deeper meaning and significance than many people may realize. A single definition for this commonly used word or expression does not exist. However, we can all agree that the word refers to something that is inspiring, uplifting, exciting and life-affirming. We've also heard some Greeks say that it signals "danger" and therefore is an awakening call to remain alert to and in harmony with the ebbs and flows of life. Still others believe the word signifies a moment to embrace and celebrate the totality of life. 

Not very long ago we received the following insight into the word "opa!" from the editor of a publication of the one of the associations representing Greek Americans in the United States. With obvious enthusiasm and meaning, Mr. George Passes shared the following perspective on what "opa!" really means in everyday life: "We Greeks know that the word 'opa!' touches the core of our being, because it conveys the Greek spirit, the kefi, the independent spirit, the celebration, the joy, that which gives us the feeling it is great to be alive, and 'opa!' is important enough to have it at any cost."

From the Sisterhood to you...
Opa!

YOLO!

After a very early and terribly turbulent high speed ferry ride, we arrived to Santorini, Greece, where we promptly fell in love with her.

The boat ride was hard on everybody on board, leaving Emma and Teagan barfing in the WC, while Nichola and Marjorie suffered quietly in their seats after listening to (and feeling - ew!!) the person behind them vomiting continuously.  Ick!!

Once on solid ground, things improved immediately and dramatically. As we drove up the mountainside from the port to our hotel, we were able to look down into the caldera, and up at the whitewashed adobe buildings so characteristic of the Cyclades Islands. I think we've picked out a few homes we'd be willing to live in in a pinch. I prefer the ones with colour, a blush of pink, a splash of pale green, a spray of blue... while Marjorie prefers the white wash with what I refer to as Santorini blue accents - shutters, doors, domes, although I repeatedly tell her that those last ones are reserved for churches!  We both agree that we must have a million dollar view, a beautiful tiled pool and quick and easy access to the beach!

YOLO (You Only Live Once) has been the motto of so many parts of our trip. Whenever one of us feels uncertain about doing something, another will pipe up with "YOLO!". Sometimes it's been about simple things like having to split up while riding a subway when you can't all get into the same entry, or persevering in walking up a tricky path on an injured foot when everyone else thinks you should wait and rest. But yesterday ... yesterday were some of our best YOLO moments all rolled into one.
While in Fira, after walking the rolling cobbled streets searching for Greek treasures, we decided to indulge in a spa. Not your typical spa - a Fish Spa!  Soaking our feet in tanks of tiny fish for 15 minutes was different, ticklish and fun. Admittedly, quite a fear for me to conquer but the rest of the girls were as cool as cucumbers about it, so I picked up their YOLO attitude and went for it. The tiny fish don't have any teeth and don't bite in any way, and really, it felt like a bunch of bubbles against your feet and legs.  Oddly relaxing...

This was followed by Henna tattoos for the girls ... Nothing wild, but still a thrilling first for them!
Then we capped off the day by offering the girls a parasail over the Agean Sea along Perivolos' black sand beach. Because all three could not go up together, Nichola went first and loved every peaceful and exhilarating moment of it, saying that the view from up above was incredible. Emma and Teagan followed, hooting and hollering all the way up, and down to dip your toes, and up again!  All 3 loved the experience and reveled in the views. It was a moment of heartful joy for Marjorie and I to see such appreciation and excitement in our children.

So much of this trip has been a once in a lifetime experience for all of us. YOLO seems aptly fitting.

And if there is something we can all take away in common from an adventure shared both personally and vicariously, it's that, in the grand scheme of things, you only live once ... Take a risk, try something new, eat good cheese ... (Especially if it's saganaki!)

As we hear from the vendors on the beach each day, "eínai kaló" ... Everything is good!
And so it goes with the Sisterhood...

Sisterhood, Party of Five for Pick Up?!?

This morning at 7:40, we were greeted outside our hotel by a full size Mercedes coach.  We thought watching tiny smart cars and Fiats negotiate these roads was wild?  Now try it in a gigantic bus!!

We saw an incredible amount of history today and learned a ton about Athens and Greece, listening to our sweet guide as we traveled between amazing sights like the Acropolis, Hadrian's Arch, the Olympic Stadium, Zeus' Palace, the Parthenon and the Plaka, a shopping and eating area at the heart of Athens, laying in the shadow of the Acropolis. 

Olympic Stadium

Hadrian's Arch

The Parthenon at the Acropolis

Temple of Zeus

Three things I learned today:

1 - the word PANIC has its roots right here in Athens. There were a few fierce battles between the Athenians and the Persians over control of Greece, and during one battle in particular the Athenians were losing miserably. There was a cave in the rocks above the battlefield and the Greek god Pan (half man, half horse) resided therein. He was a lesser god - the god of shepards and flocks - but he saw the Athenians struggling and descended from his cave. His appearance and actions startled the Persians and during the ensuing panic, the Athenians were able to overthrow them, securing their control.

2 - following this victory, the Athenians sent a messenger to share the news of the win with the city officials. The plains of Marathon, where the battle had occurred, were located 26 miles, or 42 kilometers, from the city stadium where people had gathered awaiting word. The messenger ran the entire distance, and following his announcement of victory, promptly collapsed and died from exhaustion.  Each year, all around the world, many races of the same length are run by millions of people trying to achieve personal victory. 

3 -  after learning that Athena was born out of her father's head, I've decided that the relationships between parent and child are all the same in their basic elements, no matter how powerful you are, where you live or what century it is.

Following a tryst that left him nervous about his lover becoming pregnant, Zeus promptly ate the woman whole.  It was too late though, as she was already expectant. Many months later, after forgetting about the whole thing, Zeus developed a horrific headache and eventually the pain became too much for him to bear.  His head was cleaved open and out emerged Athena, ready to battle her father over this horrid injustice. Zeus, however, quickly acquiesced and declared her his favorite daughter (naming her Athena for her great strength and wisdom) in order that there might be some peace. 

So, here's how I heard it ... Parent gets splitting headache caused by child. Child throws massive fit. Parent gives in so that they can get a little peace and quiet. Splitting headache dissipates. Is that about right??

It was another fabulous day but we're wiped and the ferry comes early tomorrow morning. 

And so, from the Sisterhood I say, "καληνύχτα". 

Good night. 

Ciao Italia! Yia sou, Greece!

On our last day in Italy we visited the colosseum and the Roman forum. As we walked toward the colosseum, we met a lovely Italian woman who explained to us the significance of the forum and many of the surrounding buildings. It was a friendly lesson in history - very cool, indeed.

The colosseum is an enormous monument and we basked in its stature and cooled in its shadows for quite some time before making our way back to our hotel district. We visited a local coffee shop and sampled some Italian soda. Or that's what we ordered at least!  What we received was a very expensive glass of tonic!  I kid you not - Schweppes Tonic over ice with a slice of lemon. The only thing missing was the gin!

We ended up picking up some cheap carryon bags as our shopping had gone beyond our packs. Too many damn Birkenstocks!  Hopefully the bags make it home in one piece!  We just need to get them through 3 flights!  Move over Birks - more room for olive oil!

We indulged in an al fresco ristorante for supper and enjoyed yet another tasty Italian wine. We had calamari and fried zucchini flowers (a local delicacy) and then sampled some Napolian pastas. A very nice last supper in Italy.

Today we flew from Rome to Athens. What a great flight!  Marjorie and I agree that there are some recommendations to be made after these first weeks:

1)  Home Away - the company through which we found our French apartment.  But more specifically, Decothentics, the actual apartments.  The place was perfectly suited to us, the location was fun and peaceful all in one and the people were fantastic. Riquewihr was a great place to stay and the girls were able to get out on their own in the town.

2)  Hotel Berna - the pensione we stayed at in Florence, Italy.  Amazing people, especially Emanuela, who was a sheer delight from start to finish, helping us get around, booking reservations for tours and sharing stories of her family and country. It felt like home and we would both recommend this place in a heartbeat.

3)  Aegean Airlines - service was superbe, from boarding to disembarking. Inflight service was excellent, seats were plenty roomy for a short hop flight (even though many write ups say to expect tiny spaces) and although Nichola was a touch under the weather, the flight was a piece of cake. She even came out of it feeling better. We might be a bit biased because they are a Star Aliance member, but for the 16 Euro more that we paid to travel with them, it was worth every cent!

The people of Athens have been very welcoming.  We are looking forward to a 5 hour tour tomorrow of the Ancient Athens highlights. It starts at 8:30 so as to beat as much of the midday heat as possible.  With temps up into the 40s, that's not a bad thing at all!  Whew, that's hot!!!

Just like the Sisterhood ... after a day in the Roman sun...

The Ketchup Post

There was once a mother tomato who had a baby tomato. They used to go walking a lot but the tiny tomato was very pokey.  He dawdled everywhere he went and soon fell far behind his mum. She would only allow him to fall about half a block behind before stomping her foot and shouting, "C'mon Silly!  Ketchup!!"

And after missing the blog for a couple of days, that is precisely what I intend to do.

July 17

What???  More walking???
Welcome to Italy, Folks!

This morning we hopped a bus to the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens, both vast and full of twisting paths. In the gardens, we were privy to both natural and man-made delights as we walked through the trees, bushes and flora, interspersed with statuary, fountains and sculptures, as well as a pond surrounded by shady benches and tiny lemon trees.  The Pitti Palace is now a museum of fashion and modern art. It was interesting to walk through the palace and compare it to the castles we had visited in Germany and France - here are the sweeping marble staircases. The clothing was quite a neat display of antique and modern haut couture.  Plus, they had really good air conditioners. :)

From the Pitti Palace, we walked around Florence and made our way to the Duomo, where we learned that you frequently cannot enter a church in Italy with bare knees or shoulders. We were allowed to view the chapel from the entry way but the girls and I could not enter the church to get an up close look. Marjorie and Nichola faired better, with Nichola donning a poncho to cover her shoulders. They spent some time admiring the features of the Duomo from the inside, while the girls and I checked out the outside views and meandered back to hotel.

July 18

On to Rome We Go!

After a painfully fast train ride between Florence and Rome, we checked in at our new place and headed out to explore the city. I say painfully fast because that is accurate to a T. The train was traveling so fast that our ears were popping the entire time!

We walked around, familiarizing ourselves with the streets (code for trying to read a map made to be used with a magnifying glass and translator) and found our way to the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Both were incredibly popular (code for crowded beyond belief) and incredibly cool (no code required)!  The Trevi Fountain is not done justice in movies and media. It is enormous and the detail in the sculptures simply can't be captured by a camera. We tossed our coins, each hoping for one more trip to Rome.  It's proven to work for Marjorie and me, so we're hopeful for the girls too!  The Spanish Steps are a thing of legendary popularity and there was no doubting that when we finally found them. The girls played a little game of "Where's Waldo?" before we set out once more through the markets, piazzas, and tiny cobbled streets, to find our way home.

Trevi Fountain

Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti - The Spanish Steps

July 19

The Smallest Nation in the World

St. Peter's Basillica - Vatican City

Today we boarded the overstuffed subway and visited the Vatican - the world's smallest sovereign nation, with a population of fewer than 500 people. We toured the city, visited St. Peter's Square and the Basilica, (The Basilica is profound in both stature and beauty, presenting many more amazing artworks, including Michaelangelo's Pieta - so beautiful that words escape me) and witnessed the awe inspiring beauty of the Sistine Chapel.  It was truly amazing and both Marjorie and I were able to witness the restoration that has taken place since we had last visited.  The ceiling is without comment as no words can adequately convey the feeling you get looking up at the at the essentially horizontal 134 x 43 feet of ceiling that became a plaster canvas to a then 33 year old Michaelangelo, who took a scant 4 years to finish the project, with a few assistants only to help with mixing paints and moving the scaffolding that he himself had designed in order to make the job easier. Contrary to the movies, Michaelangelo did not paint lying on his back, but bent over backward - worse, I suspect.

Contraband photo of the Cappella Sistina

We grabbed a bus to Piazza Espagna and walked the length of the Corso, occasionally stopping to do more than window shop. Eventually, we arrived, tired and sore, back the hotel where, after the quickest of pauses, we headed out for some local cuisine. Eating dessert before a meal has become commonplace as we navigate from one gelateria to the next in constant pursuit of our next fix.

And now here it is, 12:20 pm in Italy, 5:20 pm back home, as I bid you a fond farewell, Friends and Family.

Peace be with you.
And also with The Sisterhood...

And We Walked...

And walked ... And walked ...

We walked to do our laundry.  In Firenze.
We walked back to the pensione.
We walked the eight flight of stairs to our rooms.

We walked to the Duomo.
We walked to the Galleria Academia.
We walked IN the Galleria Academia.
We walked to the Uffizi Gallery.
We walked IN the Uffizi Gallery.
We walked to the Ponte Vecchio.
We did not walk ON the Ponte Vecchio.  It was very crowded and we were very tired. We will walk on it tomorrow.
We walked to a restaurant for supper.
We walked to a gelato place for dessert.
We walked back to the pensione.
We walked the eight flight of stairs to our rooms. In Firenze. (Just barely.)

Buonasera from the 10 tired feet of the Sisterhood...

PS - The museums were remarkable. The masterpieces were incredible. The David was nothing short of spectacular.

Contraband Photo of Michaelangelo's David

Venezia e Firenze

We spent a full morning in Venice before heading toward Firenze. Took the vaporetto to the railway station and vegged a bit before catching the speed train to Florence. After trying to get up from the floor where we were sitting, Teagan fell victim to our first backpack turtle ... Not fun for her but soooooooo funny for us!!

The speed trains of Italy are definitely the new way to go. They are fast and comfortably air conditioned with nice big reclining seats. We were actually alone in our carriage for over half of our trip. Lovely!  We'll take another one between here and Rome in a couple of days.

Our pensione is nice and close to the railway station and is about 6 or 7 minutes walking from the Duomo. Emanuela, the woman who works the reception desk, is absolutely lovely and has been so welcoming. She reminded us of the wait times for things like the Uffizi and Galleria Academia, and even booked us reservations so we could avoid long lines.

After a check in and cool down, we got the Firenze lowdown from Emanuela, who pointed us in the direction of good food, good gelato, good shopping and some nice places to visit that are not typical tourist stops. We wandered around and found some shops where the girls bought some cute dresses that will be nice and cool now that we have entered the warmer part of the trip.  Marjorie and I have seen so many cute sundresses since we have been here.  Must be so much cooler!  And very trendy and IN!

That's about it for the day, Friends.

Sisterhood, out.

Venice ... City of Canals

Following a fast and furious drive from Salzburg, Austria, to Venice, Italy, we dropped off our dear Lisl, bid a fond farewell to her in the rentacar lot and went forth on foot into the 30 plus degree heat of Venice - packs on our backs, water bottles at the ready.

Marjorie and I are wondering how driving at home will ever be the same.  Every drive on the autobahn was a new adventure, a new test in navigation, a new ... speed.  When you consider that our average driving speed has been 140 km per hour, given that it is 50 in the small towns and the top speed for either of us on the autobahn was 170kph, it is hard to think that the measly 100 we're "allowed" to do on the perimeter will ever really be enough. It should be noted that even at 170, we were being passed by vehicles at speeds well over 200kph. But worry not, there is no speed limit on the autobahn and in a heavy car like our Lisl, going 150 felt like a float down the lazy river. Ahhhh, European engineering ... never has my appreciation been greater.

Once we made our way by bus from the aeroporto into the city, we took a vaporetto (water bus) from the main port to San Marco Square and made our way through the very narrow, and very smelly, alleyways of Venice, being directed on a small wild goose chase by the good natured and helpful Italians. The canals may look romantic and the photos will do them no justice, but the aroma leaves much to be desired by both heart and olfactory senses. The gondolas are very neat and the drivers in their striped shirts are seen everywhere. 

San Marco Square is under some renovation right now and there is a Taipei Arts Festival on here too so there were a variety of scaffolds and live installations in the square. The vendors of Murano glass and Italian leather abound and we managed to find some of both to carry home. The glass work is stunning, the colours remarkable. We saw some amazing blown glass art pieces costing as much as $5000. Tempting but ... No, grazie. Por occhi solo.  (For eyes only.)

 

After a meal of margherita pizza, pasta, and bellinis ... followed by some delicious Italian gelato, of course ... we took another tour of the area, wandered along the Grand Canal and browsed a few more shops. We have another early morning tomorrow as we move on to Florence in the afternoon and want to make the most of our short time in Venice. 

Buonanotte dalla sorellanza...

The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music

We had our Sound of Music tour this afternoon and it was a full three hours of history, movie trivia and sing alongs. We learned a ton about the history of Salzburg and Austria, and about the filming of The Sound of Music.  The film is like a patchwork of various sites around the Salzburg area. Different shots were filmed in different areas, some of which were pointed out and some of which we visited today. We saw the Mirabell Gardens and the Pegasus fountain, where the multiple scenes are filmed during "Do Re Mi"; Leopoldskron Palace which was used as the back of the manor for scenes on the balcony and the water; Nonnberg Abbey which is where the real Maria stayed until going to work for Captain von Trapp and where the Abbey scenes were filmed; and Hellbrunn Castle where the girls skipped down the lane with Confidence and where the famous "16 Going on 17" gazebo sits, locked up tight after a lawsuit involving a leaping elderly woman and a broken hip. 
Then we drove about an half an hour out of town to visit the Lakes District and Mondsee Church, which was originally Gothic until a Baroque facade was built around the front (who knew?) - it was chosen because it had the best filming angles for the aisle shots. Just like the children and Maria, we also visited Braun's cafe, where we had some fabulous apple strudel with warm vanilla sauce and cool vanilla ice cream. Delicious!!

We are heading to Venice tomorrow, where we let go of Lisl the Diesel, our trusty Volvo station wagon. It has been great to have a car and driving here has been as easy as driving at home (only WAY faster!), especially with the help of NeverLost to navigate us through the tricky parts ... you know, like busy intersections, or mountain passes, or farmer's fields.  We will be sorry to see her go indeed, and from Venice on we'll be on foot and train while in Italy.

Thinking of you.
Do, Re, Mi ... and the rest of the Sisterhood ...

Lichtenstein and Neuschwanstein - 2 Castles, 2 Days

Out of Internet range for a couple of days while we visited 2 more of Germany's castles ... Lichtenstein, a small and cozy castle still maintained by the family that built it, and Neuschwanstein, Germany's most famous and resplendent castle, and number 2 on the Must See list, following only Berlin.

Schloss Lichtenstein is small and much cozier as castles go.  Meant for only one man and used primarily as a hunting house, it is filled with cool artifacts and mixed stories about damage during the wars. I had taken my brother there on a fieldtrip when he was 7 and laughed to see another class group of about the same age there when we arrived. The castle is built off the side of a mountain and the sheer drops from the windows and property are a little disconcerting.  The castle is constructed primarily of a white stone found in the south central region of Germany. Because of this, the castle appears very bright and clean ... almost glowing off the side the mountain. The German word for light is "licht" and that is how the castle got its name!

Neuschwanstein on the other hand is enormous and is one of Germany's postcard landscape icons. The castle is massive and stately with balconies, huge stained glass windows, turrets and spires, and flags that wave regally in the wind. Schloss Neuschwanstein was the model upon which the iconic Walt Disney World citadel is based.  

 

Rising up out of the mist in the mountains, it is a majestic sight.  The best pics are taken from a suspension bridge over a valley and waterfall. Also beautiful ... but the bridge is made of wood, and although it has steel rails and support beams, it bounces and bows and feels ... well ... unsafe, quite frankly. Although Nichola can explain the scientific reasons and physics behind why such a bridge will not fail, it didn't help the other four of us very much as we steeled ourselves, took some gorgeous pictures and bee lined it for solid ground. I should note that it is likely that there were close to a gazillion people on that bridge at one time.  A gazillion.  At least.

After an overnight in a hostel in Salzburg, Austria, we are getting ready to head out on our Sound of Music tour for the afternoon!  We will overnight here again and head off to Venice, Italy tomorrow.

#thesisterhood

Europa Park and the Death Ride of 2013

Spent the day at Europa Park. By Europa Park, I mean the second largest amusement park in Europe and the number two amusmement attraction in Germany. And by day, I mean 12 hours ...

It was a great day full of walking, waiting, wandering and rides.  We rode some wicked roller coasters, including Wodan, the ninth tallest wooden roller coaster in the world!!!  We rode the first ride together on Euro-Mir, a one of a kind high speed spinning steel roller coaster - as an introduction to roller coasters and the day ahead ... however, following what has been coined by Marjorie as "Death Ride 2013", she chose to people watch during our other coaster rides. We did ride the Atlantica Supersplash flume ride and the Fjord raft ride together and both were breezy and damp - exactly what we needed to break up the heat of the day.

Wodan Timbur Coaster

Nichola and I rode the Blue Fire, Europa Park's first full inversion roller coaster and only the second of its kind to present with a twisted horseshoe roll anywhere in the world. Needless to say, the hour long wait was more than just a little nerve wracking for me, leading Nichola to ask at one point, "Are you okay, Auntie?  Your face looks a little grim."  The two and a half minute ride measures your pulse as you start and finish ... Mine rose by a minuscule 23 beats per minute. Ha, t'was nothing.
The 112 km/hour ride consisted of a full inversion loop rising to 32 meters, the tallest inversion loop in Europe, followed by the twisted horseshoe roll (what I would later call Hell, as in, "There was a slight pause and then we were in Hell.") and ending with a heart line roll ... I did mention the pulse thing, right?

Blue Fire Mega-Coaster

At the end of our day, we had supper in a restaurant called FoodLoop, where our food arrived via ... you guessed it ... roller coaster. Seated at round tables that centre around a pair of mini steel roller coaster rails, you order your meal using a touch screen computer and the order is communicated to the kitchen upstairs.  Your meal arrives in a small steel pot with a secured lid, and your beverages come in a little carseat-like contraption. Quite wild and amusing to say the least. Food was inexpensive and good though and it was a fun end to a very fun day.  (The restaurant has apparently been featured on Bob Blumer's "World's Weirdest Restaurants".)

Looped and pooped, we bid you goodnight ... from the Sisterhood ...

Haut Koenigsbourg - Big Castle, Small Steps

Today we visited Haut Koenigsbourg, a castle near us in France. First discovered in the 12th century, the castle has now been restored to the way it appeared in the 1400s as a museum of the Middle Ages. There is structural restoration going on right now to help keep the castle within the requirements for safe tourism.

We loved the castle and everything about it but reflected that what we see on TV isn't always an accurate depiction of the real thing. Castles in real life are massive and drafty.  The stone steps are narrow and often curving in tight spirals of pie shaped slabs of stone. None of this wide, sweeping, marble staircase business!  Dressed in many layers and tightly bound corsets, it would have been a challenge to navigate this enormous castle. The hike up to the castle itself was long and sloping - one we couldn't fathom carrying groceries up, let alone moving a piece of furniture or cannon while wearing a chain-mail suit of armor.  Life must have been very hard then, even for the wealthy and powerful.

You must park quite a distance away and walk up the one way mountain road to the castle entry. The climb up to the castle is a daunting feat for many but the view from the top is stunning and is most certainly worth the journey. The view of the Alsatian countryside is unmatched from this perspective.  Widespread deep green forests and fields of wheat and grape vines, dotted with tiny towns of cobbled streets and stone buildings with terracotta tiled roofs.  Beautiful...

Dear France,
Thank you for another breathtakingly amazing day.
Sincerely,
The Sisterhood

Gastronomie! Riquewihr Edition

We've just been billed 54€ for our two meals!!!

Granted, they were spectacular and nothing short of it!

• pan seared white wine citrus breast of chicken 
• Greek pasta salad with feta, olives and tomato, served al dente
• beet leaf salad with fresh berries, boiled egg and peppers
• fresh field berry and Greek yoghurt parfait
• raspberry limonade
• Maurice Schoech Pinot Gris 2011

Remarkable girls!!

And the kitchen is already spotless!

As are the plates of the sisterhood...

      

Struthof Concentration Camp - Natzweiler, France

Typing this entry as our girls cook supper for us ... marinating chicken breasts in some delightful Alsacian wine and pouring their mothers a glass alongside.  Yummy!

We spent the day at Natzweiler, France.  Marjorie drove a grueling route full of hairpin turns and switchbacks, taking us 45 minutes to get up the mountain and a mere 15 to get down.  We stopped on our way up to support a local volksfest market by purchasing some homemade macaroons and local sausage. The second stop for lavender macaroons added to our drive but also to the experience!

Once up the mountainside, we visited the Struthof Concentration Camp, where we toured the barracks, the gas chamber, the incinerator and the prison where Nazis carried out horrible experiments in the name of science.  It was a sobering experience and the girls commented that it was depressing but worth it. It led us to some meaningful conversation on the drive back down the mountainside and we arrived back in Riquewihr feeling grateful for all we have.

Ceux qui admireront la beaute naturelle de ce sommet ne pourront croire que cette montagne est maudite parce qu'elle a abrite l'enfer des hommes libres. ~ Leon Boutbien, resistant deporte a Natzweiler Struthof. 

 Those who admire the natural beauty of this summit can not know that this mountain is damned because she was a free man's living Hell.  ~ Leon Boutbien, Resistance member deported to Natzweiler Struthof.

Thankful for all we learn and experience. Thankful for all we have. Thankful for our friends and family back home.

Thankful ... for the sisterhood...

Naked Sauna Anyone?? ... NOT!

Spent the better part of the day at the Caracalla Therme, a gigantic spa and baths in Baden Baden, Germany. It was beyond relaxing and so much fun. The girls were all set to try the nude sauna and baths upstairs but got up there only to find out that it was co-ed ... No thank you!!  Shocked, they returned to join us in the large massage pool outdoors and we passed a few laps in the lazy river current pool before taking off to shower up.

A Few of the Outdoor Pools and the Lazy River

Some of the Indoor Pools

We then made our way to Hugelsheim, where I lived for a year, many moons ago. We visited my old house and had a great German meal of schnitzel at the Gruner Baum, a restaurant that my family and friends frequented way back when.  Delicious!! 

 

Home again to do laundry and have some great tarte au pomme, au rhubarbe, et a l'abricot, as well as some fantastic flammkuchen, which we bought from a local beer garten to support a ski team from Riquewihr. So cool!

Tarte Flambee, also known in German as Flammkuchen.

But not quite as much so as the sisterhood...

Welcome to Germany... Please Ausfahrt.

After a day of flawless flights, we arrived in Frankfurt, Germany, picked up our packs and made our way down to get our car. Being the lucky ladies that we are, we were upgraded to a fabulous Volvo station wagon, which we've fondly named Lisl the Diesel!

Lisl the Diesel

Marjorie took the first driving stint and was an ace, negotiating the Autobahn like a champion and getting us safely to the medieval walled city of Rothenberg ob der Tauber!  We napped like fools, tumbling into our beds and sleeping where we fell, and then walked the tour of the Night Watchman - led by an endearing and entertaining gentleman carrying a very large axe!  It was the last day of the town Volksfest and there was a big firework display to send us off into our first night's slumber.

After a breakfast of fresh baked croissants, we visited the shops of Rothenberg where we found some new Birks and some Christmastime fun!  We opted out of the medieval crime museum and in to some delicious lunch before getting on the road again to Heidelberg, where we stopped and toured the Schloss Heidelberg before moving on to our apartment in Riquewihr. The people of Riquewihr are lovely and the town is idyllic but the apartment was locked up tight and the owner was nowhere in sight. We had a delicious supper of local treats like tarte flambée and spatzl at a main street pub and ended up winging it and bunking at a nearby hotel for the night.

Today we got the apartment and it is completely comfortable and cozy ...

Living Room at Rue Kilian 1 in Riquewihr, France

Just like the Sisterhood...